When the Europeans came to Louisiana
they found incredible abundance, but they did not find conventional
agriculture. The orderly rows of plants, which marked European
agriculture, did not exist here. The Europeans thought that what the
Native Americans did was merely hunting and gathering. But the Native
Americans were great stewards of the land. They had planted peach trees
on the levees - peaches having been brought here by the early Spanish explorers
- to encourage good drainage. They cleared areas to encourage
blackberries and dewberries. They ground file and picked greens.
And they engaged in the practice of growing the 3 sisters: corn,
squash (like cushaw, which provided the fruit and seeds), and beans.
The soil was fertile, and the early
Europeans were able to create farms that supported the first settlers.
Around the Cote des Allemandes Alsatian farmers began to grow the food
that was needed to support early Louisiana. They were not engaged in
monoculture to raise money for France in the early days. They were trying to feed themselves when
shipments from France were infrequent at best.
Native Americans were great stewards of the land and they cleared areas to encourage blackberries and dewberries. |
Today the
state is third in the US in the production of rice. Rice is the daily starch of most of the
state. Whether eaten with gumbo or red
beans, an etouffee, a shrimp Creole, or a jambalaya, Louisianians eat a daily
portion of rice. It is certainly important enough that there are many recipes
that have been created simply to use leftover rice. Besides the traditional calas, there is also
rice pudding. And on the savory side,
many a stuffed tomato, mirliton or pepper began with a bowl of leftover rice. Besides its great production of rice, the
state produces $230 million in soybeans, according to the LSU Ag Center. And about 350,000 acres of the state are
planted in corn.
The Tabasco pepper grown in Avery Island, Louisiana has gained world-renowned status and can be found on nearly every restaurant and home tables. |
Satsumas are grown in orchards in Southeast Louisiana and are sweet and have a loose skin, making them easy to peel. |
But being
high in production for export is not the only important aspect of the state’s
agriculture. Sometimes the food is
celebrated for just plain tasting good, even if it never leaves the state. Creole tomatoes, for example, are a prime example
of local terroir. Those same tomatoes
grown in a different environment would not taste quite so good. While the tomato is a New World fruit, the
satsuma, a very popular citrus fruit in Louisiana, is originally from Japan and
brought to Louisiana by the Jesuits. The
satsuma has caught on in the backyards and tables of the state even though it
is rarely seen in grocery stores outside of the Louisiana drive radius.
Only the
Louisiana yam, which is really an aged sweet potato, has the texture and
sweetness to hold up to baking. This New
World tuber is a favorite in Louisiana, not only gracing the Thanksgiving
table, but finding its way into pies and casseroles. Most recently sweet potato
fries have been a popular alternative to pommes frites. Matt Murphy of the Irish House is one of many Louisiana chefs who use locally-grown produce to add rich flavor and bright colors to their menus. |
Another
New World food is the pecan. This nut is
found all over the state. It is the
highest in antioxidants of all of the tree nuts. They made wonderful desserts like pecan pie
and pralines, but also are fine additions to savory dishes and salads.
Louisiana orchards produce about 15 million pounds of pecans each year.
Besides
large farms many restaurants are enhancing their own tables with fresh produce
from restaurant farms and gardens. It is
a good way to monitor quality and demonstrate a dedication to the freshest
ingredients. Not all restaurants have
the land to create their own gardens, and these restaurateurs sometimes have
direct contacts with small farmers who sell directly to the restaurants.
Louisiana
produce comes from the rich and fertile soil of the state. Whether it is the product of monoculture like
soybeans, rice and corn, which makes enormous contributions to the state’s
economy, or is an heirloom fruit like a Louisiana strawberry, Louisiana produce
is some of the finest to grace the table.
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