Richard J. Brennan, Sr., New
Orleans Restaurateur, born in the Irish Channel, passed away the evening of
Saturday, March 14, surrounded by his family and loved-ones. Brennan was
the first in the family to serve as a Chair of the Louisiana Restaurant
Association (LRA) in 1961-1962, and to serve on the National Restaurant Association
Board of Directors.
“Mr. Brennan was an ambassador and
advocate for Louisiana’s restaurant industry,” said Stan Harris, President/CEO
of the LRA. “He was a visionary, who mentored some
of the most notable of chefs in New Orleans culinary history. Mr. Dick's last role for the LRA was serving as EXPO Co-Chair with his son, Dickie, in 2010.”
Brennan (better known as Dick)
was the embodiment of New Orleans. His contributions to New Orleans cuisine,
Mardi Gras and the overall culture of the city leave a legacy that is deeply
woven into the fabric of the place he called “home.”
He was born on Third Street in
the Irish Channel in November of 1931. Dick Brennan was the second youngest of
six children, in what would become the first family of fine dining Creole in
New Orleans. His life reads like a storybook, in which good fortune, hard work
and ingenuity led to many successes.
In high school at St. Aloysius,
Dick was a star basketball player. He was all-district and all-state for
his high school career, as was State MVP for three years (all except his
freshman year). Coach Rupp from the University of Kentucky recruited him for
their championship team. However, Dick’s mother fell ill prior to the start of
school, so he opted to stay close and attend college at Tulane University in
New Orleans. A star of their team, he led Tulane to victory over Kentucky in
his senior year—the only game that Kentucky lost that season. For his successes
on the basketball court, he was inducted into the Tulane Hall of Fame in 1991.
During college he began dating
the woman who would become his wife of nearly sixty years, Lynne Trist Brennan.
Dick met Lynne through his sister Dottie – Lynne’s friends from their years
attending the Academy of the Sacred Heart in New Orleans. Shortly after
graduating from Tulane, Lynne and Dick married. Dick completed two years of Law
School before he enlisted in the Army and was stationed in Augusta, Georgia and
Williamsburg, Virginia. When he returned to New Orleans, he intended to
finish Law school but his brother, Owen, and both parents passed away within a
year of one another, he instead went to work at the family’s restaurant,
Brennan’s on Royal Street. With his siblings, Dick was instrumental in opening
Brennan’s in Houston, Dallas and Atlanta, as well as Chez Francis in Metairie, Louisiana,
Mr. B’s Bistro and the Friendship House on the Gulf in Mississippi. During this
time he and Lynne had two children - a daughter, Lauren, and a son, Dickie Jr.
In 1973 the Brennan’s split their
restaurant interests, and Dick along with his siblings John, Adelaide, Ella and
Dottie took control of Commander’s Palace. The New Orleans’ Garden District
landmark had faded over the years and the siblings were tasked with reviving
the nearly 100-year-old restaurant. Dick was passionate about New Orleans and
America. He recognized the sheer bounty of our region, including
ingredients and talent. Instead of European chefs, he hired from the area. Paul
Prudhomme and Dick collaborated on dishes that today have become synonymous
with New Orleans cuisine. He walked to work each day from his house on
Third St., and each day he passed a pecan tree. He wondered why almonds were
used to coat fish and not pecans that grow locally? From this simple question
posed to Chef Prudhomme, pecan crusted fish was born.
In an interview with The Times
Picayune, Emeril Lagasse once said, “You could have no better mentors that
Ella and Dick. They are absolutely the best. They are
legends. They are masters of the restaurant business.” Emeril was
the Executive Chef at Commander’s Palace from 1982 – 1989.
The same could be said about his
taste in spirits. He featured California wine on the list at Commander’s Palace
years before this was commonplace. Dan Duckhorn from Duckhorn Wine said that
Dick believed in him and his product and that he was the first to put it on a
wine list. He was well known for saying “If you’re going to drink whiskey,
drink American, drink bourbon!”
When Dick and his siblings first bought Commander’s, their goal, similar to any new restaurant’s goal, was to bring guests in the door. Breakfast at Brennan’s had been very popular and they wanted to create a similar environment filled with celebration for brunch. It was Dick who thought that two of New Orleans most valued cultural possessions – food and Jazz - would make a fantastic marriage as “Jazz Brunch.” On Saturday, Dickie Jr., Lauren, and his cousins headed downtown on the Streetcar with paper flyers. They handed them out on Canal and throughout the Quarter. Not sure what to expect the next day for brunch he staffed a little more than usual. The turnout beat all expectations, and the next weekend he called in reinforcements in the form of his kids, nieces and nephews and their friends! That was the beginning of what today is celebrated around New Orleans and throughout the country – Jazz Brunch.
When Dick and his siblings first bought Commander’s, their goal, similar to any new restaurant’s goal, was to bring guests in the door. Breakfast at Brennan’s had been very popular and they wanted to create a similar environment filled with celebration for brunch. It was Dick who thought that two of New Orleans most valued cultural possessions – food and Jazz - would make a fantastic marriage as “Jazz Brunch.” On Saturday, Dickie Jr., Lauren, and his cousins headed downtown on the Streetcar with paper flyers. They handed them out on Canal and throughout the Quarter. Not sure what to expect the next day for brunch he staffed a little more than usual. The turnout beat all expectations, and the next weekend he called in reinforcements in the form of his kids, nieces and nephews and their friends! That was the beginning of what today is celebrated around New Orleans and throughout the country – Jazz Brunch.
“For his contributions and
dedication to the restaurant industry and for creating the concept of the now
world-famous Jazz Brunch, Dick was inducted in the LRA’s Hall of Fame in 1978,”
said Harris.
Friend, Chef, and New Orleans
restaurant owner Frank Brigtsen recalled, “I learned to sauté under the
watchful eyes of Mr. Dick Brennan, who monitored every single plate that left
the kitchen for Sunday Jazz Brunch at Commander’s Palace. Not all of my
omelets passed muster. “Can we do a little better than that?” he would
gently ask. His generous spirit, innate brilliance, and warm heart
touched me throughout the years, whether it was a touch of Pernod at his home on
Fat Tuesday morning, his winning smile at a special event, or his gracious
charm when dining at Brigtsen’s with his lovely wife Lynne. His mark is
felt throughout the city of New Orleans, a testament to a life well
lived. I am grateful for his friendship.”
Hand in hand with his desire to
share his love of New Orleans with visitors, he co-founded the Krewe of Bacchus
with his nephew, Pip Brennan. At the time Bacchus was founded, the norm for
most Mardi Gras krewes was to invest the majority of member’s dues into the
social balls and related krewe activities. Dick and Pip ensured that the
majority of the Krewe of Bacchus’ dues would be used toward creating better
floats and throws (beginning what is now commonplace of having dues include a
bag of custom throws). This in turn meant a better Mardi Gras for visitors and
locals along the parade route and helped improve the world’s best “free party!”
Above all, Dick was a mentor—a
mentor to his children, his grandchildren, his chefs and countless individuals
who proudly don their black and whites. As much as New Orleans and Dick are one
in the same, so can be said for him and hospitality. His restaurants were an
extension of his home, a place where guests came for the complete experience;
from food to service, it was a place where everyone felt special. He leaves
this legacy, along with so much more, through his children and the restaurants
they operate, as well as the several restaurants operated by his extended
family—all of his former employees.
In Hungry Town, New Orleans’ food critic, radio host and author Tom
Fitzmorris wrote, “He’s by quite a large margin the most interesting person
I’ve come to know on my own beat.” He also believed that, “Dick commands the
highest regard from other people in the business, especially his former
employees. Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse consider Mr. Dick (as they
and everyone else who ever worked for him call him) among the world’s most
astute restaurateurs.”
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